Noja to Pont - Aven

13th September

The weather was pretty kind to us most of the day as we wandered around Noja and back along the coastal path. There was a jumble sale in a big marquee in the Plaza Mayor, with an accompanying Classic Motorcycle display.....both were something of a joke really.

As the weather began to close in, we hit the coffee & cakes, before a siesta back at base. We walked out quite late that evening, but had a couple of really good racionesfor tea. Then we rediscovered the Pasada cocktail Bar and had a Ron-Coke rack whilst playing cards.

14th & 15th September

A casual breakfast & packing of the bike, then we were away from Los Laureles and saying goodbye to Noja for another year at least. We'd already discussed returning to spend more time in the Picos and northern Spain.

We had a couple of hours or so to kill before getting to the ferry, so explored east of Noja, stopping on the promenade at Salono, which was alright, and then 'discovering' the larger town of Laredo, which wasn't! Neither would tempt us away from Noja, which has just about everything we'd want from a seaside town.

We grabbed a coffee in Laredo and it was then that I discovered our room key from Los Laureles (doh). Fortunately we had time to return it on our way back to Santander.

The approach to the ferry port was straightforward, but negotiating the port area itself was less so. Poor signage and tricky parallel rail lines in the roadway made for a need to be extra specially alert.

Never seen so many bikes getting on a ferry. Well over a hundred of all types. Funny how we never saw any on our travels, but guess a few hundred are easily swallowed up in a country this size.

The Pont - Aven. They packed us into quite a small area on the boat. The boarding process was slick though, with swipe cards provided for cabin access, which also included your individual WiFi code. The cabin was very small, but the bunks were comfortable and it was clean.

 

The boat was very well equipped, with multiple lifts, a pool/spa area, several bars & restaurants, two cinemas, ships, etc. Didn't feel that they were ripping us off for food & drink either. Well done Brittany Ferries!

The crossing became increasingly rough as we progressed north through the Bay of Biscay, reaching a peak at around 1am. We were rolling around in our bunks, being kept awake by the shuddering & crashing as the boat was battered by the Atlantic. Fortunately, it settled down during the remaining early hours and we got some good sleep before emerging for breakfast at about 10am. The weather was going to cause an hours delay in our arrival at Portsmouth, but we didn't mind. It would all too soon be over......for a while :-)

 

Posted with Blogsy

Over the Picos to Noja

12th September

The Hostal Alfonso VI in Sahagun was one of the nicest we've stopped it. Central location, nice room, secure parking and very friendly owners. Topped it off with a simple, but very nice breakfast, which included proper orange juice!

We had a great run through the eastern end of the Picos Europa today. Absolutely love this mountain range and need to spend more time here. Brilliant, enjoyable roads (some of which are the most testing you'll find anywhere) through incredible scenery. We did well navigating too, picking out way through the mountains using various roads. The road out to Almanza was pretty flat, but the view ahead of what was to come was great. Then it was through Guardo & Velilla, before taking on the spectacular road past the dammed reservoirs of Compuerto & Camporredondo, the second of which was empty, as the dam was being repaired.

Stopped for a break at a lovely looking Hostal in Triollo and then continued on through Cervera de Pisuerga and Puerto de Piedrasluengas. We stopped at the Mirador to take in one of the most incredible mountain views anywhere.

The road from there to Puentanansa was both awesome & frightening. The downhill decent to Puentanansa is cut into the mountainside with virtually no crash barriers to speak of. It's rare that you get such an impression of being on the precipice whilst riding! We needed a stop in Puentanansa!

The remaining route through Valle de Cabuerniga to Cabezon de la Sal was more open as we dropped out of the mountains to pick up the autovia to Santander & beyond. We reached Noja at about 4.30 and checked into the same place we'd been impressed with last year; Hostal Los Laureles. Even had the same room & not disappointed.

The weather was closing in, so by the time we walked into town for dinner, it was raining lightly. Eventually found what turned out to be a great place to eat. El Cine. The waiter spoke English and had the confidence to recommend food & wine. We had a great meal over about two and a half hours, so didn't mind spending a bit more than we'd been used to on this trip.

The next day we did the usual - walked around for a few hours. Weather was nice enough, but with a spell of rain mid afternoon.

We still like Noja!

 

Posted with Blogsy

Ruta de la Plata

11th September

Great hotel in Caceres. We had a very good nights sleep and breakfast. Got away quite early (for us), because we had about 300 miles to cover.

Heading north on the old road towards Plasencia. What a great road. Once again, virtually no traffic, a good surface and engaging dynamics. Also on the plus side; there where some varied views with some interesting things to look at. Not least was the huge civil engineering project taking place midway between the two cities. We could only assume that they are constructing a railway, because there certainly didn't appear to be a need for yet another road!

We dropped onto the autovia to get around Plasencia and stayed on it for the remaining 80 miles or so to Salamanca. This is the Ruta de la Plata (the Silver Road we think). It traverses open dry plains and moderately high mountains (climbing over 1100 metres) past the Candelario ski area. Some of the views must be in excess of 50 miles!

We skipped around Salamanca on the motorway, then headed off up the SA605 towards Toro, stopping for a coffee and ice cream at proper tin pot place next to a derelict swimming pool in some village I can't remember the name of. The rest of the run was pretty samey, challenging in that the roads were predominantly long, straight, well surfaced, traffic free, but red hot! We passed through a couple of nice looking towns, but basically made haste to our chosen overnight base in Sahagun.

We pulled up outside the Hostal Alfonso VI at about 4.30 pm. The lady on reception was a star - no English, but very welcoming. Got the bike stowed in the basement car park and into our room for a shower. A really nice, comfortable feel about the place. Clean & tidy and for nowt really.

Sahagun

We then had an obligatory beer, followed by a mooch about town. Then it was food, beer, cake and coffee, before a relatively early turn in. I think listening to a couple of loud Yanks (of several on the Camino de Santiago) had tired us out......well you couldn't help but earwig on their incredible lives!

I said that it didn't count, as it's not 'Movember'.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Discovering Caceres.

10th September

We had another ace day in Ronda yesterday. Wandered down to the 'Roman Bridge' and found the unexpected delight of the Arabic Baths well worth the 3€ entry fee. Later we bit the bullet and paid four times as much to go and look around the interior of the bullring. Shirl was quite keen, despite hating the 'sport'. Too expensive for what it was, but interesting nonetheless.

Looking down at the Arabic Baths

Inside the 'warm room'

The 'New' bridge

Rhonda Bull Ring

The day was capped off in fine fashion when we met up with the newlyweds - Mr & Mrs Gwynne. They'd come to southern Spain on their honeymoon, so we'd arranged to take them out for a meal in lieu of a wedding present. We'd also missed the wedding, so it was especially nice to get together and hear how it had all gone.

That night, we both paid the price for eating too late and had a bad nights sleep. We skipped breakfast and I went in the trek to fetch the bike, whilst Shirl sorted the place out and finished packing. Our stay at Ermita was good. A few little failings we thought, but overall we liked the place.

Navigating out on the ridiculous roads in Ronda was a real pain, but once on the open road, we got on with it. A good road to ride all the way to Saville, at reasonable pace with light traffic. A slight hiccup getting past Saville, then we stopped for a coffe & bocadillo atun.

The next section was fab. A fast, bendy, but open road out to Badajoz. We stopped en route at Jerez de Los Cabelleros and spent some time chatting with a very friendly Dutch couple. Another stop in Badajoz and then we were in Caceres at the Hotel Iberia Plaza America. Good room in a small corporate type place with underground parking. Cheap too!

Caceres - Plaza Mayor

Well, did we troll round Caceres or what! Setting off in the wrong direction and doing a big loop around before finding the old city centre. It was worth it though. Definitely a place to revisit and spend a bit more time exploring. The wall city is incredibly well preserved/maintained. Had diner in the Plaza Mayor - basic stuff, but decent enough. Got lost returning to the hotel.......getting good at getting lost on this trip it seems.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Ronda!

7th September

We set off from Merida in lovely riding conditions. Sunny & warm. Headed directly south down the A66 auotvia as far as Zafra, where we turned onto the N432 to Llerena, stopping just before there for fuel & a leg stretch as the day heated up.

We then had an amazing, virtually traffic free run all the way to Ronda. Taking in high plains, mountains & valleys, the roads varied from challengingly twisty to very long, straight, big sky stuff.

Passing through Guadalcanal, we negotiated some twisty mountainous stuff on the way to Constantina, where we took a break.

It was getting pretty warm now, and was well over 30 degrees by the time we arrived at Osuna. A small beer and tapas was required......so we made it happen.

We didn't have far to go now, or at least it wouldn't have been had I not taken us 10 miles in the wrong direction at Teba. Oh well, biggest error in 1500 miles. Unfortunately, that also gave the impending thunderstorm a little more time to build and it hit us with full force about 10 miles from our destination. Needless to say, we stepped into the lobby of our apartment building on Calla Ermita like a pair of drowned rats. Fortunately, the owner didn't seem too concerned as we stood dripping on his tiled floor.

 

We'd booked the apartment for 3 nights and it looked to be a good choice. The only disappointing factor was parking for the bike. I was directed to an underground public car park about half a mile away. Put it this way, I walked back quicker than it took me to find it negotiating the myriad of ancient cobbled streets, in the wet, with the bike spinning up occasionally!

Once we'd settled in and rested for an hour or two, we found a supermarket and stocked up with a few supplies. Making our own dinner tonight!

8th September

 

A lazy breakfast & morning before venturing out to discover Ronda. A lovely warm, mainly sunny day beckoned. We wandered through the town, along the cliff walk and studied the gorge. Then it was discovering the older part of Ronda and doing a bit of Tinto de Verana & tapas.

It was about 5 pm when we got back for a siesta & dinner, before dragging ourselves out at about 9.30 for an evening stroll and a couple of beers. Had a great day.

 

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Moto to Merida

6th September

Despite initial misgivings, the out of the way stay at Aldealungua turned out to be alright. The inconvenience of having to travel the few km into Salamanca was more than offset by the decent hotel (La Plazuela) and the final nights entertainment from the locals in 'their' bar.

A late start saw us away in the increasing temperature, straight onto the autovia towards Plasencia. After a quick 50 miles, we dropped off into the road to El Barco de Avila, before descending along the long valley on the N110 to Plasencia, where we stopped for a break.

The run from Plasencia to Trujillo on the EX208 was memorable. Initially winding around a couple of reservoirs, through a national park area, it exited onto a hot, dry & high plain. Like the American mid-west; long straight roads for miles. We were ready for another stop when we got to Trujillo, so we're pleasantly surprised when we got into the centre of the town to find a bit of a festival kicking off in the main square. Nice looking place too.

A shortish motorway hop finished the day off and we arrived at the Capitolio Apartments in Merida. Wow, what a place. Large modern apartment & superbly furnished to boot. We like!

Spent the evening wandering around Merida old town. A centre characterised by Roman & Moorish ruins. The centre was nice, but the surrounding streets dirty & run down. Doesn't look to be much prosperity around here! Still, we found a bar for a couple of beers & liked it so much that we returned for food later. Good grub & a great bottle of wine for not a lot.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Salamanca

4/5th September

Santo Domingo was a bit quiet really. A lack of a bar or restaurant meant that out evening meal had been a couple of uninspiring raciones at the hotel. The breakfast also turned out to be pretty basic, but we'd had a good nights sleep at least and the sun was shining.

The twisty road to Aranda de Duero was great. The run from there to Valladolid was okay also. Well surfaced roads and no traffic.

We avoided the centre of Valladolid (a city seemingly in isolation) and skirted onto the A62 autovia towards Salamanca. We didn't stay on it for long though, dropping off onto the parallel N620 at Tordesillas. This is the old main road and is in good order. We saw about 6 other vehicles on it in 40 miles!

We got to our digs early, about 3pm. Fortunately there was no problem checking in to the rural Hotel La Plazuela in Aldealengua, about 9km east of the centre of Salamanca. A very nice room (just as well as we're here for the next 2 days), but the transport links into Salamanca proved to be useless (trains only run twice - early morning & buses 3 times a day), so we ended up taking the bike into the city & stripping our gear off at the roadside. Fortunately, the Spanish are good at providing 'Moto Solo' parking everywhere!

Salamanca is vibrant & full of interesting architecture. We had a very pleasant time wandering through its streets and along the River Tormes.

By the end of the day in Saturday 5th; we'd walked all round the old city, had a beer or two, had a disappointing Paella, a decent coffee & ice cream, coloured our hair (Shirl), had biscuits for tea and, finished the night in the only bar (in Aldealengua) with several more beers and 2 large Anis, whilst being entertained by locals. Magnificent!

 

 

Posted with Blogsy